Saturday, October 25, 2008

Nature walks

Hola! I am sitting in a hostel back in El Calafate waiting to go the bus station at 4 am (miz) to go to Ushuaia (not miz). I had a wonderful time in El Chalten. It´s right at the base of the Andes. Trails go up into the mountains from the hostel´s backyard. Needless to say, I´m not normally a huge hiker, but I loved it! If I had the gear, I would have stayed for a week and done lots of trails. It was magic. I took lots of good pics that I´ll post when I get back to BA. So excited to get to Ushuaia. The bus ride is about 18 hrs. No prob. You have to go through Chile to get there and I´ve heard it takes quite a while to get through the police check points, etc. Tierra del Fuego here I come. If you´re bored, check a map and see where it is. It blows my mind that I´m all the way down here.

Everyone´s facebook statuses say ¨Hotty Toddy¨so I´m guessing Ole Miss beat someone. I have no idea. So removed. The last town I was in was formed just 15 years ago. They still don´t have an ATM.

Hope all is well! I´ll post from Ushuaia soon!

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Glacierzzzz

Hola mis amores! I´m down in El Calafate. I saw glacier Perito Moreno today, and I still can´t get over it. It was, I think, even more impressive than Iguazu Falls. I literally still can´t believe it. Google that ice and check it out.

Well, I just booked myself a bus ticket to Ushuaia, the most southern city in the world. It´s the jumping off point for Antarctica. I will not jump all the way there though. From Ushuaia I hope to somehow get back up to Bariloche, another great Patagonia town and from there go ¨home¨to Buenos Aires. I do miss it. I miss my fave sandwich bakery place and La Americana empanadas and Santa Barbara.

Enjoy your day! Adios.
Char

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Marine biology

Hola hola hola! I´m still in Puerto Madryn. I´ve had such a great time here. I´ve seen tons of whales, dolphins, penguins, seals, birds, etc. It´s amazing. I´ve decided to continue traveling for a bit. I just can´t make myself go back to BA with so many things to see. I leave this afternoon to go to El Calafate which is waaaay south. The main reason for going is the Perito Moreno glacier. I can´t wait. It´s prob going to be a life changer. From there, I have some options for more travel. I´m considering going to Ushaia, the southernmost city in the world, or maybe to Chalten and then into Chile. Hopefully I´ll end up in Bariloche in a week or so. To get there I might can do this amazing boat cruise thing that takes you all through the coast of Chile. It´s a bit pricier than I´m used to spending in South America, but if not, I´ll be on a bus for 4 days or so. Not sure...

I´ve already gotten the email lecture from Brucie on travel safety etc. I´ll be super careful and check my email everyday if possible. It´s so much easier than I thought to travel down here. The only prob is that I´m so unprepared! I´m backpacking with a Vera Bradley duffel. And I have no warm clothes except a fleece I bought here. I think I can make do, but I totally wish I had planned for this. I look like an Ole Miss sorority girl that got dropped of in the Patagonia instead of the KD house. Oh well. It will just be my personal travel style.

Hope all´s well back at home!

BTW - I keep meeting all of these adults who are traveling for like 6 months at a time. They all get some sort of career break. They´re from Ireland or Germnay or somewhere European normally. We need to start that up in the ole Estados Unidos.

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Away I go

Well, just wanted to drop a quick note. Thinsg are great in BA. It's a lovely day. I had class with Ester. I learned a lot about politics here and the political history and why things are the way they are. As I left the cafe I decided that yes - I am going to Puerto Madryn! I can do this! Solo travel South America here I come. So I bought a bus ticket online, booked myself into a hostel, and went to a locutorio to print out my confirmations and in 5 hours I am off on a 20 hour bus trip to the Patagonia. What am I thinking... but so excited!

I went to volunteer yesterday. Or to try to. And it was quite an experience. I found this program on Craig's List that helps people in La Boca (the colorful, fun, ghetto place). So I sign up and go. I walk around with this woman, Roxana, and 2 others. She takes us on a tour of "the real Boca" beyond the 3 Disney World blocks of painted tin and tango. Rough hood fo sho. She taked about how poluted and gross the Rio is (obvi, it smells awful) and how it's giving respiratory problems to the residents. She told us about the history and the living conditions and the poverty and the immigrants. We even went inside one of the "conventillos" (the tin houses) and it was not pretty. Lots of bugs. And these houses are literally tin sheds with some wood stairs. Hardly acceptable living conditions. I can't imagine how cold it gets there in winter inside a tin house. There were lots of cute, dirty children. It was quite the eye opener.

Also, my whole previous post about how fun the colorful houses are blah blah blah should be deleted because now I feel bad. She told me all about how the people who work and make money off of the boca tourism aren't living there and they just explot them. I just liked the colors...

Then we went to a "comedor" which is basically a soup kitchen. And I cooked. Kind of. I know I am hardly in a place to complain after seeing how hard life is there but omg. They gave me a huge, tupperware bin (like under the bed dorm room style) full of raw red meat. Floating in beige creamy sauce. Like a bucket of death alfredo. It was repulsive. And I had to spear the meat with a fork and then cover it in bread crumbs and then pile them on top of each other. I am still shuddering. It was groser than Old Man Garden. I know I am a spoiled little brat but this was sick. And kind of fun. But mainly gross.

Then we went to see this apartment building the co-op is constructing to house people in the conventillos. It's a big dream that I hope comes true one day, but I have to say that I doubt it.

Then we returned to the comedor to eat. Yep. I had to eat the death meat that I made. And I haven't really eaten since bc I'm still a bit naseous. It was just a beef milanesa which I eat all the time but something about seeing the process has me running veggie, Julie style. Oh the horror...

Oh and then I paid 95 pesos. Yes. You have to pay to volunteer everywhere. It's odd. I just hope the money actually goes to the right place. My teacher told me that lots of these organizations just make money off toruists like me. All I really want to do is play with some cute kids who need help. Is that so much to ask? I'll keep looking for more opportunities but don't think I'll be returning to that one. It was 7 hours of "look how miserable the conditions are and no one will help us and give me money and my life is so hard". I swear I am somewhat compassionate but I have a hard time seeing how it's the government or their landlord's job to fix all of this for them. I know I just lost all of my Democrat friends with that statement. I'm just bloggin' honest.

I came home on the bus (first time on the bus, success!) and then went to get a mani-pedi with my friend Brie. Yes, I left the slums and went to the spa. I should be thrown into the polluted Rio.

The spa experience was hysterical. The manicure lady was legit but crazy grandma giving the pedicures was insane. I had to sit in all these weird positions while she held my feet. They don't do the whole big comfy vibrating chair here. It's a plastic chair and a stool. It wasn't exactly pleasant but it was fun. And I see now why a mani-pedi only cost me about 12 dollars.

Well, I'm off to pack some more. I'll post when I return! Hopefully lots of penguin pictures!

Love,
Char

PS - Pray for Mari Kath's grandpa - he's quite sick and in Houston having surgery. Love you!

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Boca, Boating, and Beer

Hola hola! How’s it going patriots? All’s well in Argentina. I’ve spent most of the day in my bed watching all of my fave tv shows from yesterday. A heavenly day. It’s raining so I don’t feel too guilty. I’m jamming out to Midnight Train to Georgia. All’s good.

So last I left you, I was kicking in with frisky grandpa in the park.

Haven’t been back to the park. But I did have quite a scare. I got a text from someone named Gabriel, the name of my park rendezvous. I knew it would be impossible for him to have found my number. I have like a Go Phone. So I am freaking out that he has found me but in a weird haha God you are so humorous way, it turns out that the boy I met at the bar also happened to be named Gabriel. And it was him, Gabriel the 20 something not Gabriel the 80 something. Amen.

Thursday after my internship people told me that all of the computers were broken and that they would just call me when I was needed again (probs ever) I went to go to see the Madres of the Plaze de Mayo march. They do it every Thursday afternoon. It's an orginazation of mothers or family members who lost children. For a while some group or the government was just kidnapping people. The mothers march in their memory and to raise awareness. It's very moving and genuine.

The weekend was great. Friday we started the birthday celebration of Danielle who was reached the age off 22 (the year for you, also rhymes in Spanish – veinte dos es para vos).

I had my first Spanish class with Ester who I found on Craig’s List. She’s super cool and awesome. We met in a café that’s very historic and cool and basically just chatted for 2 hours. I’m going to meet with her 3 times a week.

From there, Santa Barbara met me and we trekked of to La Boca. La Boca is a neighborhood in BA. If you ever see the random pictures of super bright buildings, its La Boca. Very frequently featured on guidebook covers. It’s way on the other side of town and it’s kind of a rough neighborhood and it’s super touristy but I loved it. It’s like a ghetto version Rainbow Row in Charleston with lots of souvenirs and tango dancing. We ate lunch outside while watching some tango. Lots of people hassle you and try to sell things but it’s cool. I even volunteered my amiga Danielle to get on stage and dance. I consider it a birthday gift. It was not well received, but she danced tango on stage in Argentina. That’s cool. You’re welcome Daniela.

We walked around and took lots of pics and shopped for gifts. I had a lovely time. I detoured off on the adventure home to hang out in San Telmo. I had a beer at this outdoor café and watched the hippies sell crafts. One made me an incense burner with stars and moons. I told him that I don’t like incense so he turned it into a picture holder. I didn’t want to buy it but I felt bad but then he rejected my money. He said that money was of this earth and there is so much more and all he really wanted was for me to buy him a beer. I ran away.

I got home, hung out, and then got ready for our fabulous night on the town.

We went to the Faena Hotel bar. It’s the most fancy, coolest, trendiest, most awesome place in Buenos Aires. We got a table by the pool and everything was so hip and there were orange twinkle lights, and I drank a 60 peso martini. Very Sex and the City. Even the bathrooms were fabulous. We took pictures. No lie. It was amazing. I want to check myself in there and never leave. I’ll bet that’s where all the celebs stay.

And from the Faena we went to Fridays. That’s right. TGIF.

Birthday girl wanted a magical mudslide drink or something. We had to ask the doorman at the most luxurious place in this country for directions to TGIFridays. Slightly embarrassing. We took a cab to Fridays and had a lovely meal. We didn’t leave the restaurant until about 2. People here eat so late. I had a big beer and a grilled chicken sandwich and fries. So good. America food. Loved it.

Saturday we slept in and then took the train to Tigre, a small delta town about 30 minutes from BA. The train was fine and the city was cute. Some people call Tigre the Venice of South America. (Must be the same people who call Buenos Aires the Paris of South America. Wrong wrong wrong.) We took a boat tour. The boats work like cabs. People get on and the boats drop them off at their cute little houses. (I thought lots about days on the Ghetto Queen and when we tried to park at the Country Club…) It was all fun until a storm came up and the waves got a bit rocky. We naseausly made it back and went to get lunch. It started raining. We ate and then got back on the train. I’d like to back on a nice day and go to the market and stuff. I think Chatham is more my kid of delta town. I also prefer the raft to the boat we took. No question. But Tigre is kind of what the bayou should be like instead of what it is. Too many mastercrafts. Not enough canoers.

We lounged and chilled for the evening. No one wanted to go out due to the weather. I was sad. So I went to the grocery store and bought Fanta Light, medialunas, and a bottle of wine. Then I went to La Americana and got some empanadas. I ate them and then sulked in my room, drinking my wine. I was missing home and the big events of the weekend. A friend got married in Destin and Brucie also was at a wedding on Sea Island. So I listened to music and drank and cried and watched Sex and the City. I called my Mom who did not listen to a word I said and was prob feeling the effects of the wedding reception if you know what I mean. I’m becoming a homebody in my old age. I miss the South. And smiles.

Low point. But moving on.

Sunday we slept in and then went to Café Martinez, our usual Sunday happenings. I read and drank my coffee. I got restless and went on a long long walk. I ended up in some plaza watching cute little boys play soccer. Then I wondered to Recoleta and went to a bookstore. I bought a new book that I think is basically Argentina chick lit. Then I walked back home. Danielle’s bday was at midnight so we went to La Americana for a drink and a bite to eat. Then we came back and slept.

Monday was Columbus Day, which is observed pretty seriously here. A lot of places closed. But not the mall. We went shopping and I had some serious success. I bought this purse I've had my eye on for a while. I also bought red leather moccasins, cookie monster blue jeans, and a little t-shirt with a bow. If I put all of my purchases on at the same time I look like a crazy US navy enthusiast. I love it all. The purse is like butter. Beautiful, tan, leather.

I came back and did laundry for the first time in a loooong time. Getting the machine is a huge deal. Our whole floor and the sixth floor all share one washer and one dryer. And we thought it was hard at the KD house with all 7 washers and dryers. Lots of people went home or traveled for the long weekend so I managed to snag the washer. Success.

Then I got ready for Danielle’s bday dinner. We went to Cumana, my fave place. Our meal was so good. I got a pumpkin, corn and cheese dish. There were 6 of us, all girls. It was such a fun good meal. Then we went to Alamo do drink America style. And we did. They were showing Monday Night Football. I pretended to be all involved and that I was some huge Eli Manning fan. I think I told everyone in the bar that his wife was in my sorority. I’m sure they were all very impressed.

After mucho muhco cerveza, we started the walk home. I fell. On the sidewalk. I blame my boots, not the beer.

This morning was an adventure. I don’t know how I used to do it in college. I could hardly get out of bed. I just grabbed the first clothes I saw. I left my notebook. I was late. Total disaster. But class was great. Ester and I talked all about our weekends and some current events.

I’ve basically been in bed since then. I did venture out with Danielle to go buy groceries and eat McDonalds. My McNifico burger was delicious. The fries were good and salty. I asked for muchisimo ketchup. They gave me 5 mini packs. When I get home, I’m covering some food in ketchup and eating it. I love it. And I miss it.

I’ve caught up on so much online TV today that megavideo just forbade me from watching any more until 67 minutes pass. That’s just embarrassing. It’s like some little man inside the internet knows how lazy I am.

Off to lounge some more. I’m staying in tonight. Norway just invited me to go to Alamo with them tonight. I think Alamo has seen enough of me for this week.

Tomorrow I have class at 10 and then will probably go to Palermo. I still need a new wallet. I’ve been emailing around trying to get a volunteer thing going helping some poor people or something but no one will email me back. Lame. And my internship still hasn't requested my presence again.

Not sure about this weekend. I might just take off solo and go to Puerto Madryn. It's about 20 hrs in bus but you can go whale watching and see penguins. Not sure.

Love and miss you all.
Chargentina.





Santa Barbara carved some pumpkins














The Madres marching


















Mas madres. That's the Casa Rosada in the background.












Che books, photos, magnets, you name it. They sell it. People love this dude.














La Boca

























Danielle dancing some tango. Happy birthday!

















Hola




















So bright. Loves it.















Flags breezing in La Boca



























Sitting on a bench chillin in la boca.
































La Faena! The fotos didn't really turn out. But just google this place. I just checked into reservations and rooms are like 5000 a night. Guess I'm not checking in.










TGIF

















Tigre















On da boat
































I want this house please.
















Birthday dinner at Cumana








Alamo party
22 - Danielle.














Biggest pitcher of beer in the whole world. It was like a bucket.













Birthday lover

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Once upon a park bench

Wednesday was voting day at the embassy. I woke up feeling very American. Good morning patriots! We got on the subte to go to Palermo. We walked a bit and then found the embassy. There was a huge line of Americans – most around my age or younger, probably here studying for the semester. And guess what I saw. 4 Greek sweatshirts. Like with the block letters. That you only wear for freshman year. I saw ATO, Pi Phi, Delta Gamma, and another one I didn’t recognize. (Sadly, I saw no KD sisters to exchange nautiluses with but AOT anyway.) Luckily our amigo Erik was already way up in the line so we just merged in by him. We went through security and walked in. Welcome home! There were red, white, and blue balloons. A bass brand playing. Starbucks. McDonalds. Northface jackets. Flip-flops. Blonde hair. America!

We ransacked the food tables, observed, and finally got in line to vote. The ambassador spoke for a few minutes. We filled out forms and stood in lines and finally dropped our envelopes in the big mailbox. After you voted, they even gave you a blue sticker with the American flag on it that said “I voted absentee!” (Mucho like Ole Miss and the I Voted – now leave me alone sorority clans – sticker)

The form was so basic – like maybe I just typed this up on my own computer and called it a ballot. I thought it would be much more official. I never even showed my passport! Hopefully the registrar of voters office in Ouachita Parish will get my vote. My absentee ballot still hasn’t arrived (or my debit card more importantly…) so I don’t know. That vote was more of a precaution “Federal Write In Ballot”. We shall see. I served my patriotic civil duty all the way from Argentina. You best be voting as well.

On the campaign front from BA, I would say there is absolutely no contest. Maybe McCain will get 3 votes. Maybe. It’s ObamaRama down here. Even the cab drivers are for Obama.

After the embassy, I went with Santa Barbara to the park. We found a lovely lake that you can paddleboat on. We lingered and absorbed the nature. Then we walked to the other part of Palermo that I love with all the good restaurants and shopping. We ate at Mark’s Deli (big big salads). We sat outside eating and the weather was great. Then Santa Barbara headed back to the dorm and I went to the botanical gardens to read.

So begins the saga of the park bench.

I settled down on a lovely bench in the botanical gardens. I observed people, read a bit, observed some more, watched one of the 60000 feral cats, read, observed, etc. After about 34 minutes, this dude came and sat on my bench. He was probably in his early 30s. There are probably 50 benches in the park, many of which were unoccupied. So clearly he was coming over just to talk to me. Duh. I could hardly concentrate on my book just waiting for him to say Hola bonita, de donde sos? Well, after sitting there for about 30 minutes, 4 semi eye contact moments, 3 sighs, and 2 leg repositionings, the hombre left. Oh the one who got away…

And I really wish he had stayed due to what happened next.

So I’m alone on my bench still reading and watching. When people walk by I smile at them (totally freaking them out as the only people who do this are American, no not even, they’re Southern). This old man sits on the bench across from me. He is such a cute little grandpa. He’s wearing corduroy pants, a sweater, loafers, and smoking Marlboro Reds. So cute. We make eye contact and then he gets up and comes over. He stands in front of me, asks my name and where I’m from, what I’m doing here, and if he can sit down.

I’m so internally stoked that I am making a little park friend. I am already seeing us hanging out in the park in the future or having coffee or basically recreating The Holiday with Kate Winslet and the little cute Jewish movie writer man. I see Miami reunions in the future.

I’m rocking the Spanish and he talks slow so it’s great. It’s like I found the perfect conversation partner. He tells me how lovely I am and how pretty my eyes are – this isn’t that uncommon here- they love to compliment the ladies. I tell him all about my family, friends, Ole Miss, America, the residencia, my internship. He then gives me his “card” which is basically a wedding calligraphy thing with his name and phone number. Just in case I ever need anything in the city or whatever (this also is common. People in cafés or at the gym or whatev always chat us up and ask if we need anything). We chat for about an hour and then he suggests we walk around a bit to a sunnier spot because it’s a bit chilly.

So we get up and he grabs onto my arm. I’m thinking, oh, old man just needs help walking. We go to another, much more secluded, bench and sit down. I wrap my hands in my sweater because I’m cold. He notices and says, “Oh are your hands cold? Well I have warm hands” and proceeds to interlock fingers with me and rest our hands on my thigh. (I’m shuddering just recounting this to you). And he’ll hold my hand but also at the same time do that thumb rub thing… oh god it was so awful.

So I’m holding hands with a man in his late seventies on a bench in the botanical gardens. All of a sudden the “Oh we can go have coffee, get a drink, have dinner, go to my family home in the country” talk is freaking me out. I ask him about his family and he tells me, “Well, I have been divorced now for a year, but now I have you and we can be together.”

TIME OUT.

So the whole time we have been chatting and I have been just agreeing with whatever and thinking I am Kate Winset I have really been agreeing to have relations with grandpa.

Get me out of here.

I take my hand from his and grab for my cell phone. I tell him a just got a message from my Norwegian roommate and have to go with her to dance class (What??? I don’t even know where this came from???) He asks when and I say right now. Got to go, abuelo.

I get up and he offers to walk me to the street. We get about 4 feet from it and I take off running to avoid saying goodbye. I sprint to the subte (don’t know why I’m running, old man could never catch me, he can hardly walk) and get to my residencia.

Oh the horror. It went from cute old man conversation partner Holiday style to Carrie Bradshaw in the Vogue closet with the old dude with his pants down showing her the Armani underwear, in about 5 seconds. I am scarred. For life. This was so far beyond the pervy old man at the wedding reception whose hand dips a little low while you’re dancing. And now I have this suspicion that he’s waiting for me outside because I told him exactly where I live.

He really thought I liked him. And looking back, it’s so funny. When he offered to take me to get a drink I basically screamed “yes” because I was so excited! Ewwww.

So I recovered from Park Bench Perv for a while and then went to the theater to see Flores de Acero (Steel Magnolias). It’s been on for about a month and is closing next week. I bought a student ticket for 30 pesos. I got there and waited outside along with many elderly friends (what’s with me and the geezers). We went in. My seat was center on the third row. I made friends with the couple next to me. The play was great. It’s quite different than the movie. Much more super comedy and then super tragedy. I didn’t get lots of the jokes as they were in super fast Spanish but I held on quite well. The whole thing took place in a hair salon. There wasn’t much talk of Louisiana but they were definitely “Southern”. Big hair. Gossip. Home sweet home.

Today I slept in and went to my internship. When I got there Palo informed me that all of the computers were broken and that they would call me as soon as they needed me. So basically I will maybe go back in a month. Oh Argentina. How do you get anything done?

This weekend we are going to Tigre for a day and doing some more exploring. Danielle’s birthday is Monday so we’re going to celebrate from tonight on.

I know big things are happening in America too. Not just the economy situation, which I am well aware of, as it’s all anyone, talks about here. Adrea and Chase are getting married. Now, I was there when it all began on SB2K6 aboard the Mariner of the Seas. I am so sad to miss it but know that it will be the wedding of cruise reunion century. Chalt flava. Ahoy mates! Sing a Jimmy song and drink a 7 dollar Corona for me!

I'm really going to miss the botanical gardens. Clearly I can never. ever. go. back.

Adios. – Char






After voting at the embassy
















The card from the perv.

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

Faux-ner Doner

Hola chic ahola! I could not sleep and went ahead and got up to get ready to go to the embassy to vote and hear them ambassador speak and eat “American food” and just found out we’re not going for another hour. Lucky for you that means a blog post. And I can listen to some Jonas Brothers. We all win.

So far, so great this week. Monday was spent exploring Puerto Madero and Recoleta. I also went to this wannabe Doner Kebab place. If Argentina had Doner, I would be in heaven. Doner was our Spain obsession. Basically all the “fast food” there was Turkish/Arabian Kebap. And they would wrap it all up in a tortilla with magical Doner sauce and you get fries covered in the sauce too – Oh my favorite. Well, there’s not a Doner place here on every corner. In fact I’ve only seen one. So I went to it Monday and needless to say – it’s no Doner con carne de the happy Doner place by the Abuelos house. It was ok, good even, but when compared to the Doner of Spain it’s tough to live up. Faux-ner kebap. That's what I'll call it. I also got this amazing fruit salad for 6 pesos from another little restaurant. It was a huge, like a large American cup, full of fresh cut oranges, apples, kiwis, and strawberries. So good. I took it down to the port and sat on a bench and ate it while watching the yachts. It was a lovely time.

I walked around Puerto Madero for a while. Not really sure what all the hype is about. It’s the new “it” neighborhood but as far as I could see it was just dirty water and construction. Maybe I missed the good part. They do have a cool pedestrian bridge that looks just like the bridges in Valencia. It’s called the Puente de Mujer and is supposed to represent people dancing the tango.

After that I walked to Recoleta to explore. I met up with Brie at a restaurant on Santa Fe. Danielle came too. Then Danielle and I went hunting for this cool shoe store. We shopped around a bit. Then she went home and I went to finish reading my book.

I went out to dinner with Jo and Carly to this awesome place what is so my new fave resto in Buenos Aires. It’s called Cumana. It’s dark and cool inside and they give you crayons and the food is amazing. I got this pumpkin casserole thing. I loved it. I love pumpkin. I’ve eaten it 4 times in the last 2 days. It’s a bit weird because you expect it to be all sweet like pumpkin pie but it’s eaten more just like a normal squash.

Tuesday was lovely as well. I slept in and then went off to Palermo with Carly to eat at this veggie resto that rocked. I got an avocado sandwich that was even better than the avocado delight in Monroe. I then went to the Evita museum, which I really enjoyed. I saw some of her fab clothes (so rainbow high) and read a lot about her and watched some videos and looked all smart and stuff. Then I wandered to this cool café and read the paper and ate medialunas and drank café con leche. Finally I hiked it all the way back, which took over an hour, but it, was nice out and I eat lots of medialunas and needed a little cardio.

Last night I forewent the Democrat debate party and lounged for a while. Brie didn’t go either so we went to this bar we’ve been intrigued by that’s just about 4 blocks from the residencia. It turned out to be quite a night. We drank a beer and bonded for a while. There were 3 boys at the table next to us clearly intrigued by our loud English and blonde hair. I got up to go get us more beer and when I came back, they had basically joined our table. We chatted with them for quite a while. 2 lawyers (one a partial actor as well) and a chemist. One of them is learning English so he asked us some questions. I helped him clarify the diff between fun and funny. A very important thing. Unfortunately, Brie was stuck on the other side of the table talking to one of the guys. He was quite a piece of work. Number 1 – His Spanish was impossible to understand. Something about his raspy voice. Number 2 – All he wanted to talk about was how a Socialist government combined with a super liberal society is the ideal and something about Cuba being the best (after Argentina, duh). We played a fun little game where they would say something about South America and we would say what we thought of like – Colombia – Cocaine! Brazil – Carnaval! Argentina – Evita! And so on. They loved it.

They also love love California. I told them I was from Louisiana and it’s like – blank stare. Once you talk about Nueva Orleans , you sometimes get a response. Or Britney Spears. Lawyer/actor however goes “Louisiana! Con todos los negros!” Then he wanted to know all about integration, etc. Oh Louisiana. Your reputation precedes you.

About 1:45 we peaced out but they’re supposed to call this weekend to hang out. We have to bring a third girl though because the scientist was left out. Lawyer 1/Cuba boy we can totally live without and in retrospect, lawyer/actor that I was totally wooing is probably gay. He was way into how things go in San Francisco. He was just so friendly and enthusiastic… As always.

Today entails embassy party, hanging in Palermo, maybe going to the MALBA (art museum) and - tonight. I have a theater ticket to go see Flores de Acero. Oh yes. Steel Magnolias. In Spanish. As a play. I am going to see Louisiana acted out. I cannot wait! I’ll tell you all about it tomorrow.

Mucho amor.
Charlotte









Hola Puerto Madero













My mom has been encouraging me to get a job or do something here that will enhance my future. Done and done.


















Mas puerto




Street in Recoleta. Trees! BMW's! It's just like Ole Miss. How I miss it.

Monday, October 6, 2008

Pop Goes My Heart

Hello americanos. Hope you all had a fabulous weekend. I sure did.

Friday afternoon we went to this restaurant we had heard lots about called California Burrito Co. It’s basically Chipotle/Moe’s/Izzos with the build your own enormous burrito bar. Some expats opened it. t was a lovely taste of home. I ate a big ole chicken burrito and loved every tortilla bite of it. We came back home and chilled for a while. I got some coffee. Then we were off for our asado adventure.

Asado is an Argentina barbeque. Being meat obsessed, it’s a big deal here. One of Santa Barbara’s friends lives-lives here. He lives in a real house in a real neighborhood a bit outside of the city. He is fabulous and so nice to help us out when we are confused about how to do things here. It’s always fun to see him in his little Spanish world as he’s probably 6’4 and very American college dude looking yet speaks rapid Spanish and has a real Argentina life. Very Vince Vaughn meets Buenos Aires.

So we take the metro to the train station and the train station to his barrio. Brie’s got her backpack full of our spend the night clothes. This is an overnight adventure. Prepare.

We get to Florida, our destination about an hour of traveling involved. Erik picks us up in his roomies car and takes us to his house. His house is so cool. It looks like a mini Alamo. Very college boy with empty bottles as decorations, black and white rat pack posters, pool table – hello college I’ve missed you.

We met his roommates – one an aspiring actor wearing a batman t-shirt along with a vest, the other a cool lawyer with lots of cool shoes whose mother owns one of the trendy clothing chains of Argentina. Meet Juan and Fede. Hola.

We began our evening playing pool, occasionally helping in the kitchen, downing beer and wine to ease the nerves – the usual. More friends arrived. All are very entertaining. Argentina drinking games ensued – most of the games are universal. Insert inappropriate words for numbers, categories of cuss words, same old same old but enhanced in Spanish. I’m actually glad Federico taught me all of those slang words because I think I may have won a round of the categories game when I surprised everyone with “Used Condom”. Thanks Frederico! The most useful Spanish I know!

Juan had been preparing the asado for a while now. And now it was time to eat. Oh what a feast. Maybe 3 or 4 courses of meat. Real cow. So good. Best not to wonder which part of the cow you’re getting – just go with it. The final part was this pork bacon type thing that is maybe the best thing I’ve ever eaten.

I learned during dinner that my Spanish has a Southern twang. Not a good thing. I was devastated. Stupid Ole Miss. Why why why. Sometimes the Southern thing is endearing - not in this case. I was so sad. But moving on with another glass of wine or 3 and we’re good to go.

To be honest I have no idea what we did all night. I observed, I danced, I consumed. We hung out in the backyard. We played more games. No clue. It was one of those nights you know was probably the most fun you’ve ever had but you have no idea what was going on. Lots of moments when we girls would catch each other’s eye and be like – WTF is going on here!

Eventually things start winding down at say, 4. Some people go home, go to bed. I had caught my second wind and was ready for more. Lucky for me, Juan did too. He sat me down and told me all the things he loves about America and put on a Frank Sinatra dvd. Woo me why don’t you. It was maybe the funniest thing I’ve ever sat through. I tried to keep a straight face but that’s hard to do with old batman saying – America! Such opportunity! I love Frank Sinatra! About 6 Brie came in and declared we were going to bed. Erik lent us his room for the night. We all had a lovely slumber party.

I would have to say the highlight for me was watching this video that Erik and his friends made for one of their friends who just got married. It was a remake of the music video in Music and Lyrics, everyone’s fave Drew Barrymore and Hugh Grant romantic comedy, of the 80s song “Pop Goes My Heart”. It was hysterical. About 5 Argentina dudes lip syncing to the 80s tune and dancing and acting and it was amazing. Even more amazing is that I got to see it probably 11 times throughout the evening. Hopefully it makes You Tube soon and I can share it with all of you. Also hoping that Juan’s commercials are there as well.

We awoke quite confused as one does after a fun night. Where are we??.... We giggled and exchanged tales from the night before and went to go wake up Erik so we could get the heck out of there and back to the residencia.

We made it home. Napped. Recovered.

I went on a 3 hour Western Union adventure. Everywhere was closed. I finally found one and got the money my loving family sent. Unfortunately, they would only give me US dollars that I can’t exchange until Monday when the banks open.

We went out to dinner last night at this amazing Italian/Fondue place. We all got homemade pasta. Mine was ravioli filled with broccoli and garlic with a tomato basil sauce. One of the best meals I’ve had here so far. The owner, Jorge, an Italian man, talked to us and recommended dishes, and was so the host with the most. I would love to go back there again.

Quite good eating this weekend come to think of it.
We had amazing cab drivers that night. I can’t recall the name of the, once who took us to dinner but he loved Aerosmith and we sang Love in an Elevator and he told us that his building does not have an elevator so he does not make love in the elevator.
The cab dirvers here are maybe my favorite people. And they always want to talk about the American government or economic crisis or election. I could write a novel on the opinions of cab drivers in Buenos Aires about George Bush.


After we went to our fave ice-cream place. We took lots of pictures in front of Congreso which for some reason was all lit up.

Sunday today was the norm. Spent in Café Martinez eating medialunas, drinking cafe con leche, reading books. I’m a bout halfway through the Kite Runner and a third of the way through my Spanish novel.

Tonight we’re going to see a movie – Noches de Tormenta (Nights in Rodante in English). You can take the girls out of America but you can’t take the desire to see a sappy Nicholas Sparks movie out of the girls.

Hasta luego.

Charlotte (Pronounced Char like charbroil + lot like a lot but with emphasis on the lot. That’s my name here.) CharLOT.






Hola burrito restaurant


















Fiesta fiesta. I'll try to find more pics from this epic night.












Congreso in pink























Hola madre



Putas juntos

Thursday, October 2, 2008

Buenos Aires on 7 dollars a day. Or not.

Buenos noches amigos! It’s been a super springy day here in Good Aires. That’s what Buenos Aires translates to. Not so sure that’s the best name for this city as I’m pretty sure I’ve developed the black lung due to the smog and bus exhaust. They should call it “Emphysema Aires” or something instead.

Moving on.

So I was so excited to get up and go to work today. I got up around 9, went to take a shower, and surprise! No hot water. I turned the knob for the hot water and nothing came out. So I went to brush my teeth thinking it just might need a minute. All of a sudden yellow water is spurting out of the showerhead like a geyser. I dove to turn it off and resolved to have no shower. So is life in the residencia.

I walked/subte to work. Palo let me in. I talked to her for a moment. I booted up my computer. I checked my email. I g-chatted with Will and Mari Kath. I waited for Palo to give me a task. An hour later, she tells me the magazines aren’t coming. My job was to put the magazines in the envelopes. Hence I have nada to do. I also overheard her on the phone say that my boss is in Italy. How lovely for Rodrigo. The only problem is that he’s the ne who tells me what to do. If I were going to Italy all the way from here I’d probably stay for at least 2 weeks. So I got nothing to do till he returns. Not sure when I’ll go back to work.

It’s like I’m just unemployed and living in a big city. Maybe I’ll befriend the homeless men who sleep on the street. Ask them what they do all day to keep busy.

So I left the Club del disco and the sun was shining. I decided to hike over to Palermo and find all of the wonderful parks I’ve read about. On the way I passed a lady selling dvd’s on the street. She had so many good ones. I bought Mamma Mia and High School Musical – Mexico for 6 dollars. So excited. (Not included in budget. But I‘ve been hunting for these since before I had the budget so it doesn’t count. Right?)

I continued my hike for about 45 more minutes all the while breaking in my new boots. Bad decision. Oh the pain. Darn you leather. I passed the zoo but didn’t go in because I am budgeting and have no zoo money. But have no fear! You can get the whole zoo experience without going in! By walking near the zoo you get all of the smells. It’s like seeing the elephants and hippos but with just your nose. There was a tear in the fence at one point and I saw 4 flamingos.

I find the botanical gardens and the Japanese gardens. To get to the park I really wanted to find I had to cross a street with 14 lanes of traffic. It was maybe the scariest thing since bikes in Mendoza. My map skills have improved but are still not always accurate. Hence I ended up not in the park I wanted to be in. I gave up and went hunting for a lunch spot. I found a cool restaurant with lots of outdoor seating. I ordered a delicious salad. The table next to me had a grandmother, mother, and child who was so cute. She had a Barney stuffed animal. She sang the Barney song in Spanish. “Te amo, y tu a mi. Somos una familia”. Much more tolerable in Spanish. It was lovely. My salad was worth the entire budget I spent on it. I am not good at budgets. I just feel like I deserve treats all the time. Like I had been lost and it was really hot and my feet hurt so I totally deserved to 20 peso salad. Right?

I made it back to the subte and finally back to the residencia. I tried my dvds. Mamma Mia works. High School Musical-Mexico does not. I napped. Both lights are out in our room so once sun set, our room became a cave of darkness. I escaped to the Coffee Store, read my book, ate some medialunas, and drank some café con leche. All good. Now I’ m waiting to go to the VP debate at the same bar in Palermo that we went for the first debate. Can’t wait to reunite with all of the hostile ex-pat democrats.

Back from the debate now. It was typical. Lots of booing and yelling and middle fingers in the air. Why can’t we all just get along? I still miss Ron Paul. I’m not sure yet of my vote. I’m going to the American Embassy on Wednesday to vote though. So cool. The US ambassador will speak.

We ate dinner at this trendy Italian place. Needless to say, I spent over 5x my budget today. I’m screwed. Brucie – call Western Union.

So while I was waiting earlier I wrote you a poem.



Here I sit in the lounge of my international frat house
Sorry mom but I don’t think I’m going to soon find a spouse.

The days are warm, the sun does shine, and I try to speak the Spanish
Sometimes I see things on the street that really are outlandish.

I walk around and strut my stuff, feeling a little vain
But I get what I deserve which is lots of hip pain.

From Hotty Toddy to Alabam to Hola Che que tal?
This year has been full of fun. I’ve really had a ball.



Besos.
Charlotte












Looks like I really went to the zoo, huh? I took this through the bars of the fence and a rip in the fabric. Like a flamingo voyeur.








Miracle! Trees and grass!









Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Bag o ramen

Today was a good solid dia. I slept in (quiet construction day), showered, organized my closet, ate some yogurt, and then left for work around noon. I walked a different way that took me through “Once”, the historically Jewish neighborhood. It was nice to connect with my Jewish heritage. I found a sandwich place and inhaled a chicken sammy while standing on the corner. They need more benches here or something. Then I went into work. My boss wasn’t there today. I finished translating the web site. I eavesdropped in on the other people’s convos (totally not an invasion of privacy – it’s a learning technique). I finally worked up the confidence to say, “I think I’m finished with this. Do you need any help or anything?” They did not so I left early. But something good happened.

The beginning of the month is super busy at the Club. It’s when they mail out all the discs and newsletters. Ger, one of the guys who works there, started telling me how busy they’d be tomorrow. I couldn’t understand at first if he was saying that I shouldn’t come because they’d be so busy or that I should come because they’d be so busy. (I don’t contribute too much so I thought I might just be in the way.) I told him I was done with classes so I had nothing to do tomorrow and could come in the morning too. He responded positively so I think he was actually requesting my presence. I am going in t 10:30 am to stuff envelopes. Yay! Purpose!

When I left work I decided to go into this café I pass all the time and looks so inviting. It’s called Café, Chocolate, y Canela (Coffee, Chocolate, and Cinnamon). What a fabulous name. I went in and ordered a coffee and medialuna. Then the waitress who also is the cook and maybe the owner asked me if I was sure that’s all I wanted because she just made a tiramisu that was mighty tasty. Twist my arm why don’t you. Sold. And it was amazing. I read the paper, ate my tiramisu, drank my coffee, and felt so local. I hung out there for an hour or so then trekked back to the residencia.

While walking back I saw something so disturbing and rare. It wasn’t the cover of ButtMan porn magazine they sell at all the newsstands. It wasn’t the pirated Gay Cowboy dvds the street vendors sell. It was even stranger. Bare legs. On a girl. OMG. This is rare. It’s also rare to see feet (unless it’s an American – I am so into this now though. I never want the streets of Buenos Aires to touch my feet.)

I’ve decided I’m going to keep count. Once I see 10 girls’ legs, I can wear skirts or shorts. Let the games begin.

So I’m on a super budget until my new debit card comes. I have enough pesos to last for 15 days if I spend 20 pesos a day. So I am basically living on 7 dollars a day (more like 6.70 but whatevs). I spent 5 on my sandwich and 11 on coffee and tiramisu. Hence I had 4 pesos to get some dinner. I just went to the grocery store and bought an apple and some ramen noodles. I couldn’t even buy the cool ramen that’s already in the cup. I had to get the bag kind. They cost a peso less.

Tonight I’ll be playing card games with Santa Barbara and hopefully catching Caroline on skype. She’s in Beijing, which makes for a time difference difficulty.

Enjoy your debit cards friends. You don’t know what you got till it’s gone.

Un mil besos.